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| Mike inspecting our luggage loading! |
So, this is about doing your laundry in a sink with Woolite
when you’re traveling a long time. Maybe you can relate. If not, travel with us
as we explore the Philippines in October, where we dove for 11 days and
explored for another 12, visiting 5 of the 7,641 islands.
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| We flew from Manila to Dumaguete |
NEGROS ORIENTAL
We spent our first 14 nights on Negros Oriental, a few in
the bustling city of Dumaguete where the airport is, and 11 at the Atlantis
Dive Resort.
Our last day on this island, we did a full day tour to
Valencia, to explore the island’s highlights, one of which is the world renown Red
Rock Hot Spring. Family owned for years, they opened it to tourists so
others could relish the healing benefits of the spring waters emanating from
the red rock formations. These tropical mountains are full of springs,
waterfalls and stinky sulfur vents that provide electricity to this and
neighboring islands.
The Hot Spring entrance fee includes access to a changing
room to prepare for your spa experience and a towel. Surrounded by the gentle
sounds of the springs bringing fresh water to the pool, you relax while
balancing your butt on the rocks and take in the tropical jungle and glistening
red rocks. As it’s a popular destination, we are joined by four Germans and a
Brit.
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| Hot springs and lush jungles. Not many bugs! |
We sit in the pool for a period of time feeling the energy
of the healing minerals. When fingertips are sufficiently withered, it’s
time to move on. Plus, more adventures await and our driver beckons with a
full day of exploring.
On the way in, you’re focused on getting in the water so
don’t really pay much attention to the changing room experience – there’s a spa
awaiting! Upon exit, you’re thinking, I want to get into dry clothes for the
rest of the day’s adventures. The ‘phone booth’ size space is dark, dank and
wet, with rock walls, no lights and no hooks to set your dry clothes. There is a bucket of fresh rinse water, which is also standard in most restrooms
– ready for flushing the gravity-fed toilets and providing a fresh body rinse.
Okay, so I negotiate my swimsuit removal, balancing my dry
clothing in various body crevices to keep it dry. I don my underwear, shorts
and top – impressed with my ability to keep most items above the standing
water. As I exit, Mike awaits his turn to do the circus act and I smile because
I know what fun he’ll have, too.
As the day passes, I wonder why my walk is a bit wonky, but
I don’t think much about it. Humid weather makes for some uncomfy clothing
scenarios, let’s just say. After we arrive at our hotel, I finally realize I’d
put on my sexy black underwear sideways! HAHAHA. No wonder. Then, you get to
thinking – hey, since I hand wash my underwear in the sink – does this qualify
for a ‘free day’? Now I know it’s TMI, however it does cause a pause in
your thoughts.
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| Hiked 142 steps up/down to the swimming holes |
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| Beautiful flowers abound |
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| Butterfly garden featured many species |
Our 8 hour excursion included a winding
drive through the mountains and valleys to experience:
- the Forest Camp with several
hot springs;
- the Monkey Sanctuary (monkeys are no-shows that day); - raging Pulang
Bato Falls with the rickety suspension bridge; - stinky steaming Sulfur Vents;
- the
Valencia Pigeon (a visit to “Chada Valencia” (basically “Beautiful Valencia”) which is the decorated city plaza
where Mike feeds the pigeons;
- a requisite stop at a souvenir shop and a bakery for a torta (muffin) baked in a wood fire;
- the Mango Ranch where we rode for a hour on an ATV through a river;
- a final stop at the impressive Cata-Al World War II
museum.
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| My buddy Tim at Atlantis Dive Resort |
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| Bohol Bee Farm -local handicrafts & lore |
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| Rice drying along the streets |
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| Museum had WWII memorabilia & Asian treasures |
The donation-based WWII museum is run by a chatty older gent who
is very proud of his collections. He regaled us with stories of the treachery imposed on the Filipinos during WWII and
ultimately, victory. He quoted verbatim from Douglas MacArthur’s
speech when MacArthur returned to free the Philippines from the Japanese:
TO THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPINES:
I have returned. By the grace of Almighty God our forces
stand again on Philippine soil – soil consecrated in the blood of our two
peoples. We have come, dedicated and committed, to the task of destroying every
vestige of enemy control over your daily lives, and of restoring, upon a
foundation of indestructible strength, the liberties of your people.
The hour of your redemption is here. Your patriots have
demonstrated an unswerving and resolute devotion to the principles of freedom
that challenges the best that is written on the pages of human history.
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| Mike & Ajit on our Siquijor day tour |
The extensive exhibits leave you humble and give you a feel for the Philippines’ lengthy
and complicated history. And the owner is, understandably, very proud of his collections.
SCUBA DIVING – NEGROS ORIENTAL & APO ISLAND
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| Our dive boat was well manned, equipped and comfy |
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| Double outriggers make the dive boat a smooth ride |
We dove with Thunder Reef Divers out of Vancouver WA. There
were 11 of us in the group and we all dove daily on the same outrigger boat,
and dined together during our 11-day, 10-night stay at the Atlantis Dive
Resort. The entire facility and all of the services are absolutely top notch – from
the dive operation, the attentive staff who called us by name, fabulous food, spa
treatments, easy beach and dive boat access, to the good diving and cool stuff
seen during our 19 dives.
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| Genie & dive masters w/ Cedric, Greg |
Our dive master, Genie, was a gem and pointed out lots
of macro stuff like seahorses, nudibranch and frog fish, not easily discerned
by the naked eye.
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| The wonderful breakfast wait staff at Atlantis |
In addition, we spent a day at Oslob near Cebu City (where
one of the 3 earthquakes happened shortly after we arrived) on Cebu Island. Seated
in small outrigger canoes, we paddled out a short ways then were all instructed
to fall backwards into the water – and into a bunch of whale sharks who were being
fed! That was pretty outrageous.
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| 4 wheeling through the river in Siquijor |
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| Pigeon feeding at Chada Valencia plaza |
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| @ Chocolate Hills |
SIQUIJOR & BOHOL
We planned on 3 weeks in country as it’s a long trip,
leaving Mike and I with 8 days to explore after diving. We intentionally didn’t
plan anything and as hoped, the hospitality managers at Atlantis put together fabulous
itineraries for us. They chose two neighboring islands easily reached by ferry.
Both offered plenty to see and do and were very distinct from each other.
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| Panoramic view of some of the 1,268 Chocolate Hills in Bohol |
On Siquijor (sik-e-hore), we had a couple of different drivers
in a private car for 3 tour days to see vistas, beaches, churches, museums, caves,
and a butterfly farm.
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| Man-made mahogany forest in Bohol |
We ferried on to Bohol, a much smaller island where several
people we’d met were born so they were pleased we visited their home. The Ocean
Jet ferry system is super organized, well run and they even have live music in
the ferry terminals. While some of the musicians needed lessons, hey it was
very nice entertainment. With the throngs of people on each ferry, we were glad
they checked bag tags and that we’d purchased large white hard sided cases for
our dive gear, so our bags were easily recognized. In a tight crowd, let’s just
say that’s a great benefit. Bohol offered 2 days of tours as well, all
informative and beautiful.
On Bohol, it was rice harvesting time so along the roads
were tarps with rice laid out in single layer, gently raked by the farmers to
dry. If rain started, they quickly covered up the tarps as they need 2 full
days of dry weather. I know, I know – the rice was drying alongside the busy
roadways where there was tons of traffic – maybe that’s why we should rinse our
rice before cooking?
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| View from our room in Bohol - the ocean awaits |
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| Mike and Mamay, our tour guide in Dumaguete |
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| Tarsier souvenirs in every form! |
We stayed at a high-end very reasonably priced resort where
we were almost the only patrons! We had a deluxe suite overlooking the ocean
and the pool. We had the pool to ourselves as we soaked, sipped and watched the
sunset. Pretty sweet deal and the bartenders were happy to have someone to talk
to! The dining was oceanside with white linen drapes flowing in the breeze, so
we decided to dine there both evenings – why take a tuk-tuk to an unknown place
when life is good on the beach? After full days exploring, a little quiet was a
treat.
Overall, the country is amazing. While we were there, there were 3 earthquakes and a typhoon. It rains
frequently (they say it’s seasonal, although we had plenty of rain during October
which is not a rainy month) – and you quickly understand why 95% of people wear flip flops.
Filipinos
are extremely nice and deferential to others, even in traffic! They drive crazy - on scooters, in tuk-tuks, and funky trucks and a few nice cars - but
seriously, we didn’t see any accidents (Mike is in the background saying we did
see a lot of ambulances…however). Let's just say they know how to merge and give way without skipping a beat. Crossing the road as a pedestrian is another story.
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| Wood fired oven, making torta (muffins) - delish! |
Everywhere, families are out and about with up to 4 on a
scooter, nary a loud voice was heard in 3 weeks’ time and although there’s a
lot of poverty, people are peaceful, quiet, upbeat and do with less. There are lessons
to be learned from these gentle, kind people – in fact, on the Dumaguete city tourist
brochure, they are called ‘the City of Gentle People’.
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| The Filipino flora were non-stop amazing |
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