Thursday, June 1, 2023

A Delightful Duo


The captains on board our Corvette 130
Spring in Europe is magical and we were blessed with excellent visits to the delightful duo of France and The Netherlands in May. While the weather forecasts prepared us for rain daily, we experienced some rain most days – yet the sun powered through pretty much every day, delivering amazing cloud formations and lush, green country vistas along the Canal Bourgogne and River Yonne in France and throughout our travels in The Netherlands. 

Our travels began in Paris, meeting up with our travel companions at Charles de Gaulle airport where the four of us quickly jumped on the train to Migennes in the Burgundy Nivernais Loire region. The friendly staff of Le Boat showed us our home for the next 10 days, a 32' canal boat with 2 staterooms and 2 heads, a small galley and inside and outside seating.

Ha! You may have thought this was the Delightful Duo

Never pass up a church or cathedral

Ancient bridge
Our travel routes from Migennes
Captains Mike and Marco led the adventures, along the Canal Bourgogne for five days then along the River Yonne for five days. We passed through numerous locks each day as we headed up and down the waterways; the locks were all operated by the éclusiers and éclusières (unlike last time we did a similar trip where we worked the locks ourselves). Waterways were dotted with fishermen, with their long fishing rods and extensive camp setups. The canal boat was a ton of fun, relaxing, exploring by foot and on our mini bikes. 

The French are pretty serious about their lunch 'repast', so our travel was planned around the locks being closed from 12:00 to 1:15. You pick your destinations from a guide book that outlines the many villages along the route, stopping wherever the spirit moves you.

Trail to the church
The beautiful, ancient city of Joigny with its famous bridge
Each village offered different historical experiences and perspectives, some more active than others but every one definitely has a boulangerie (gotta have fresh baguettes and croissants every day!), cathedral or church and a barbershop; many had a pâtisserie with delectable, beautiful and enticing sweets.

Escargot @ L'Escargot
Departing our canal trip, we headed back to Paris, parted company with our travel buds and spent an action-packed tourist day staying along the River Marne in Paris, close to where it joins up with the Seine. On our way back from The Netherlands, I chose a place near the Arc de Triomphe, Hotel Perdix Rouge (red partridge) right on the metro line, also did the extensive tour on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus. A perfect way to see Paris since there's so much to explore and we had one day.
Exploring the River Yonne

Ahhh, The Netherlands

Our next five days were spent in the Netherlands. We took the deluxe Thaly's train to Amsterdam where we spent a very full, walking-intense 24 hours, taking the free ferry from the main train station across the canal to our hotel, a 1912 paddlewheel boat, Kapitein Anna. The ship was beautifully restored by a nice couple and though we didn't leave the dock, they do trips regularly. 

Our main motivation for visiting The Netherlands was to see friends we met in the Sea of Cortez during Covid! We had "invited ourselves" as we had a week free after our France trip. They live in a rural area beyond Holland; The Netherlands consists of several regions, of course the most famous of which is Holland, which encompasses the main population areas of Amsterdam and Rotterdam. We stayed three nights with these world traveling sailing friends. By train and car, we experienced beautiful countryside full of gorgeous farms - pristine every one. And, more cows than I've seen in my life - even though I hail from Wisconsin. 

We explored windmills, museums, parks and learned some of the history of their country. So many stories! We spent a day in Rotterdam, enjoying the educational and relaxing canal boat trip. We enjoyed fine dining both at their lovely home and in the fabulous town of Utrecht. It was an amazing time and we hope they will visit us in Portland so we can share our local attractions.

Paris Hotel on River Marne, with fish ladder & barge traffic

Hotel "red partridge" right on the metro line

Train from Amsterdam to Dreibergen Zeist

Menu last night in Paris- Mike had kangaroo

Exploring Kinderdyk windmill historical site

Amsterdam: crossing the canal to the hotel

Gurgy: an idyllic village along River Yonne

Mysterious spring-fed well (La Fosse Dione) in Tonnerre

Umbrellas in Joigny

The noble navigators, walking the back roads of Gurgy















Wine tasting bunny

Cows and Dijon mustard fields abound throughout Burgundy region

Lock @ St Florentin

Wine tasting @ Domain D Gruhier - Epineuil

Yours truly handling dock lines





Friday, April 14, 2023

The Sound of Pelican Poop

The Cathedral in Guaymas, seen from the bench
while we shared a fruit cup 
Soft. Deliberate. Distant. Close. A gentle yet firm
sound. The sound is hard to describe...

Photo courtesy of the internet- I am not
fast enough to get a shot like this

I know, it’s an unusual topic, that is, unless you are on a boat, in an area with lots of pelicans. Anyone who’s hung around pelicans knows they are avid flyers, divers, entertainers and yes, poopers.

Fruit cup with
'the works' - hot sauce
The myriad of birds we enjoy watching are the very same ones that can wreak havoc on your floating domicile. Sometimes it’s the magnificent frigate birds trying to land on your mast as you are underway, blue footed boobies catching a free ride on the bowsprit, osprey perching on the mizzen mast with their recent fish kill using that handy platform as their dining table, armies of pied billed grebes diving in rapid sequence under and around your vessel. And the pelicans sometimes diving so close you’d think they’d hit the deck on their focused, downward trajectory. I've tried to capture an image of the dive, but they dive way too fast.

The fruit cup vendor's cart outside the church

One recent windy night we’d closed the very large hatch over our sleeping area to keep out the howling winds. A few minutes into my repose, I hear this noise. As noted above, it's hard to describe the sound but somehow I know what it is. It’s a message from a pelican flyover. Good thing that hatch was closed or this story would have a different ending…

In the morning, I spend a chunk of time cleaning that nasty stuff from the solar panels, the life raft case, the entire back deck. Good thing we happened to have a bucket of used - but fresh - water handy for this very fun task. We've all had these episodes in some form. You have to laugh, it's all part of the fun, and we keep in mind that we are visitors, fortunate to share their world. 

Hiking the trails in Puerto Escondido - looking 
at the marina
Pod of dolphins frolicked all morning around us
in Bahia Catalina






Our explorations

After our brief yet amazing inland trip to Topolobampo, El Fuerte and Los Mochis in the agricultural state of Sinaloa, it was time to move on to new ventures. Waiting for the right ‘weather window’ meant a delay of a few days but worth it, as our passage southwest about 120 nautical miles from Topolobampo to La Paz was thankfully smooth and uneventful. We motor sailed across the sea to the Baja faster than our estimated time and decided to bypass our intended anchorage. We arrived at 6:30AM, the sunrise was beautiful, the skies were blue and seas calm so we decided to continue on for the day, heading to the bay outside of La Paz.

We spent some great days with a variety of friends in the magical town of La Paz. We managed to score a coveted spot at our favorite marina on the outside perimeter. Cheaper rent, with fresh water but no shore power but we have plenty of solar. The walk from the dock to the exit gate was 8 minutes which meant planning our outings accordingly (as in, bathroom, shower, doctor visits). 

Selecting my crown at a shop in La Paz!

In addition to walking a zillion steps every day on the malecon and throughout the town, most importantly, Mike got a shot in his knee to extend its life - to avoid knee replacement.  He went back to Dr. de la Toba, who’d done the 'clean up' knee procedure 11 months earlier. The same day as his appointment, Mike was able to get an X-ray and the diagnosis! A little different timing than in the US with doctor visits... We were sent off to the pharmacy to purchase Mike's injection and the pain pills so the procedure could be done - the following day. All good.

We were fortunate to spend quality time in a few of our favorite anchorages along the beautiful Sierra de la Giganta mountains on the Baja. Incredible vistas - it's hard to capture the colors and textures of that peninsula.

Mike up the mizzen
to bring down the 
wind generator

Judy tearing out the 
47 year old walls 
from the V berth

No blog would be complete without work photos, lest you think it's all fun and games. 

We are now back in Guaymas, on the short dock, and we begin our journey north to Portland tomorrow - after our dental appointments. The travel lift is down at Marina Fonatur - which is fraught with oh-so-many stories - so we have an alternative plan slated for our haul out. Once the lift is repaired and it's our turn, the pilot boat, Piloto, will tow us across the bay to the ways where Mario will haul us to our resting spot in the yard. Alejandro and crew will be on board to manage lines, etc. Fingers crossed this will go smoothly without our being here. We are relying on our excellent vendors to take care of our beloved vessel. 


We are motivated to arrive in Portland as we are flying to Paris on May 1st where we'll take a train to the Burgundy Region. We're renting a small canal boat for 10 days to explore the Loire region with our neighbors from Portland. New adventures await!

Saturday, March 4, 2023

Topolobampo and El Fuerte: where chickens rule and Zorro was born

El Fuerte: Alfonso delivers
a refreshing margarita 
Our boat secured at Marina Palmira in the bay of Topolobampo, we began exploring the quaint town of Topo with its meandering malecon (which by the way, translates to pier) lined with Paseos de Lancha, tour boats ready to take groups out to visit the islands and surrounding quiet little bays. There's a famous local dolphin that draws tourists for the hope of a glimpse. The hillsides are full of homes and businesses colorfully painted. 

Chickens of all sizes, shapes, colors and ages seem to rule this quiet little town. They are everywhere - underfoot as we walked the malecon, up in the hills, along the sidewalks and roads, in and out along the shops and restaurants. As you can imagine, the morning cacophony is quite remarkable. Never saw a chicken for sale at the butcher shop so I think they are 'top dog' here - although there are plenty of dogs wandering the streets as well, chickens seem to 'rule the roost'.

The bus ride from Topolobampo to Los Mochis is about 30 minutes along rich farmland. Los Mochis has a colorful history, too; it's a very busy and industrial city with a large mercado and plenty of agricultural business. Locals were helpful as always. We also enjoy wandering around there, with plenty of walking and exploring. From there, we caught the next bus to El Fuerte, about an hour twenty inland.

El Fuerte: Cultural mural right outside our hotel.
A worker was touching up the paint one day. 

We spent 4 days in El Fuerte. After our first night in the hostel, we upgraded to a nicer hotel. Note to self: when searching for lodging, don't take the least expensive option. It was adequate but the entire street was under construction so that didn't add to the experience. It had rained so a muddy mess. We bumped it up a notch to a much nicer hotel, right in the town center. 

Now we are underway to La Paz so I'll sign off for now. It's a long journey out between the buoys, but the water is getting rougher so time to close up shop. 

This mural tells the story of the Conquistadores 
and their interactions with the local Indians

Mike, the BBQ king, at sunset at Marina Palmira

A muddy mess
after the rains

Check out the light
fixture in our room
Hotel El Fuerte - a fabulous upgrade, right in town

3 guys were busy painting the lobby, working daily

Moon rise in the town

Rio Fuerte - swiftly moving as the dam released
water for irrigation in the agricultural state of
Sinaloa; we did a bird watching and petroglyph tour


View from the old castle in El Fuerte - + a great museum
The birthplace of Zorro!

Colorful artwork,
furniture, flowers everywhere
 in our hotel

At the Botanical Gardens in Los Mochis

Happy Hour

Wednesday, February 22, 2023

I danced with the Oaxaca Star

You'll need to skip ahead for the fun and colorful part of
the story. The entrance to Bahia Topolobampo.
 

It was 10:30 at night, mid-watch for my 6:30p to (hoping to make it to) midnight shift on Pura Vida. Black as night can be out on the sea, with low lying clouds, a few fuzzy stars overhead and no moonlight to guide our way. We are happily motor sailing southbound for Topolobampo and I am busily watching gauges and staring into the darkness at regular intervals. Hoping to not see anything but sometimes you do.

(L to R) My diverted route, my planned
route and target vessel

Something white passed by rather close across the waves. I have no idea what and no contact, so I guess it’s all good. Then I see an AIS (automatic identification system) Target on our chart plotter. Foggy enough that I can’t get a visual, which is disconcerting as the Target is the Oaxaca Star, an ocean freighter inbound for the port of Guaymas, Sonora. Our paths were running parallel on the typical N-S course for large vessels, about 10 miles off shore.

It's way better to see freighters than imagine them

Well, I am peeling my eyeballs as they say, to see any light in the distance. I am tracking our CPA – closest point of approach – a rather important detail, especially on a night like this. Although he is a few miles out, he’s traveling way faster than we are toward me and I admit, I am getting a bit more nervous as minutes pass. Still no visual so I finally feel compelled to hail him on the VHF radio. Roughly translated…”Hey buddy do you see my navigation lights as I am little smaller than you are?” And the response was YES, he would take me to starboard. So, that was a relief.

I am not really in the mood for a midnight dance and regardless, I don’t want to dance too close - the Oaxaca Star gets the floor. I veer off course to port, deciding it’s better to arrive later at our destination and be safe. I am at the helm and get to make decisions that are right for me and for our boat. So, my adjusted route causes a bit of luffing on the reefed main sail but there you have it. Decision made and finally I see his nav lights, way off in the distance. Thank you and goodnight, Oaxaca Star.

The remnants of 'Carnaval' were being torn down
as we walked the malecon on arrival. Smaller than
the huge carnaval in Guaymas this past week

Two days and several adventures later, we are ensconced at Marina Palmira in Topolobampo, Sinaloa on the mainland. There are several things I love about Topolobampo, not the least of which - it's the only other city I know with 5 vowels like Oconomowoc, my hometown. Another busy port town, Topo is a welcome change.

See the #11 on this buoy?
Entrance to Topolobampo takes
~ 4 hours of careful navigating.
There are a plenty of buoys.
Some faintly red or green,
some with legible #, some serve
best as sea lion resting spots

We left the dock!

2nd return trip. Chilly!
Amazing sunset as we limped back, first return trip
While for many, that shouldn't be a headline with an exclamation point, but this is us and this has been our journey. It's been a few months since we successfully left the dock, so this is a big deal for us to make it 200 miles south of our home port. As many who have been following our efforts since November already know, we had a number of parts setbacks, let's just say. Oh, the stories...

Then, finally ready and weather allowing, we departed from Guaymas in January and again in early February, heading south. Both journeys ended abruptly after 40 or so miles heading along the same track, caused by different and big repair issues. Both required return trips to the Guaymas dock and led to multiple repairs, all completed by el Capitan. As we live through each issue, I guess that it all works out as it's supposed to?

My next blog will be about our adventures to Topolobampo, Los Mochis and El Fuerte which begin as soon as I post this. While I have more stories and photos, I guess you'll have to wait for the fun part as the first of two bus trips leaves soon. For now, we're packing up for the road trip and buttoning up Pura Vida. 


"loco" fruit vendor hand selecting
my 4 incredible, giant oranges from his
well-stocked pickup.
T
he guy standing next to me
asks in Spanish, "do you know Spanish?
Well, they call him loco."
Mike & his repaired
Mixing Elbow

If anyone is interested in a myriad of boat repair photos, just let us know. We can regale you with close ups of broken, then fixed parts, new additions and improved systems. 

Auto pilot repairs require dismantling our
sleeping area. Can you spot the sore back in this photo?

Fireworks kicked off Carnaval in Guaymas. While taking this photo,
I think, that's a diesel fuel tank
between me and that exploding firework...

Moon rise over Topolobampo. Pretty sweet.
Captured by el Capitan, the BBQ king at the stern