Fireflies of the Sea

School of rays performing acrobatics off our port side

Dolphins abound this year

Excellent kayaking and exploring 

Incredible rock formations along the Baja

Terns enjoying a bait ball

Turtles were in abundance this year as well

When we’re enjoying the luxury of being in an anchorage, tucked in from some of the wind and swells, experiencing nature up close, there are many moments that take your breath away. Such peaceful repose we earned after working for so many moons on boat repairs. We have been blessed with so much life, from jumping mantas, surfacing turtles, flocks of diving birds going after a bait ball and night time fish frenzies.

Bioluminescent waters swirl around the boat at night, and these last few days we experienced fireflies in the sea. Bright fish that look like they are wearing LED headlamps. All sizes, including flying fish. Non-stop zooming around the boat. Swirling balls of fish that are so bright. It's mesmerizing to watch the light patterns they create. One night, we had hundreds of flying fish partying all around the hull for hours.

At night especially when there’s little or no moon, voluminous stars blow your mind as you gaze in wild wonder at the heavens, galaxy and great beyond. When I was attempting a ‘close up’ with binoculars at some of my favorite constellations, I was blinded by the influx of light and information. It was just too much to process. So, naked eye views of constellations work just fine for me.

After a lovely 5 days exploring San Juanico with friends, we headed south again along the Baja. Turquoise waters and a calm bay welcomed us to the western anchorage at Isla Coronados. The island touts a volcanic cone and we once again undertook the journey up to see the vistas of the surrounding islands and Baja peninsula. At night, the lights of Loreto sparkle in the distance.

We are always on the quest for weather reports and sometimes, all the reporting you gather doesn’t play out. When we arrived Isla Coronados, we set our plan for the next day: early kayak trip to shore for our ascent of the volcanic cone at the nature preserve. It’s spring so the desert comes to life in subtle, yet beautiful ways. Tiny blossoms, bits of green, new shoots defying the heat and sun.

Desert comes to life

We made our descent on the trail then kayaked back to our boat late morning, after a conversation with tourists who arrived for a beach outing. They’re transported here in high speed pangas (fishing boats) for a day on a remote island. The beach was full of people and boats, frolicking was the word of the moment. A nice sunny day in a beautiful anchorage. Mike hoisted our kayaks and when we started a bite for lunch, the winds picked up. Quickly. Soon our mellow little anchorage was anything but. Pangas loaded up their guests and boogied out of the anchorage across the fast-building whitecaps. Being positioned toward those incoming NW winds, anchored on a lee shore with winds escalating to 24+ in such a short time, we hastily decided: time to go!

Sea lion sunning on the surface

Mike managed our way out around the islet to the west of the island, then south through waves that built high and fast, as the channel passage is shallow and somewhat narrow causing bubbling waters. As I donned my life jacket, it reminded me of whitewater rafting, but on a larger scale. Confused seas bounced us around and many things went bump down below as he navigated us to the southern end of the island, where a more peaceful anchorage would surely be found. Those unplanned winds were sustained in the 20s all day and into the next day so we were thankful we made the decision to move around the island to safer waters. No BBQing that night, just too windy.

At Mangele Solo, we hoisted the anchor only to find the world’s largest ball of iridescent green seaweed tangle. It was quite a job to unfoul the chain and anchor of that surreal mass before we could hoist anchor and out. Lucky for you, a photo of that nasty ball didn’t come out.

This afternoon, Sunday April 28th we will cross the sea, back to Guaymas to put Pura Vida to rest for the summer months. It's always a bittersweet moment.

Our version of March Madness

The Work: One last project in the yard, installing sail tracks.
In my closet showing the length of the bolt we were dealing with

The Reward: Margaritas on the malecon, La Paz

While NCAA basketball keeps everyone busy in the US, we were having our own version of March Madness finishing projects after our fabulous paint job. 

Moving up the ranks as the month progressed, we finally launched Pura Vida and prepared for some water-based adventures. 

Carnaval in Guaymas

Kids float

(apparently) famous Lucha Libre celebrity (with cowboy hat) on
Scorpion King float, marine guards for safety

No caption required

The Guaymas float, of course, with the Shrimp

Once again we found ourselves still there for the rowdy and ambitious Carnaval ending Fat Tuesday. We think it’s one of the larger ones in the area and there were absolutely tons of people. 

We did our time there, watched the parade a couple of times (it goes for 4 days), and I won another Pokemon light to match my other one – this time throwing rusty darts at balloons. I got all 4!

One of the many highlights of the event is the crowning of the festival queen and the Ugly King. We had the pleasure of being at the dock when the floral guys created the arrangement for the boat parading the queen along the waterfront. What a spectacle! When I left the dock to do errands, the guys had just laid their first chicken wire. When I returned an hour later, another photo opp presented itself with them hoisting their labor. They had smiles on their faces in the photo, happy that I acknowledged and complimented their beautiful work.

On our dock at Fonatur, these guys created this amazing floral
array for the queen - that's our boat behind the motor yacht

The starting point

The Festival Queen in her glory - right alongside Pura Vida!

On March 18, we thankfully left the dock at Fonatur marina in Guaymas, after laundry, one more round of fresh fish tacos (3 tacos and a coke for 50 pesos = $2.60), fresh veggies at the market and washing the boat. Our friends on Echo sent us off, this time without champagne. They had graciously brought a bottle of champagne to toast our departure two weeks prior but that was short lived and we were back at the dock before we left the harbor. Alternator problems, which kept Mike busy in the engine room the next six days, troubleshooting and reconfiguring. So this time, we said, please, no deluxe send off!

She floats! In San Juanico outside the pinnacles

Dolphins alongside (they move fast so it's blurry)

We left the bay and didn’t look back, enjoying a calm crossing of the sea, motor sailing for 24 hours with ¾ moon up at sunset and setting at 5am. We did our longer shifts once again, so we each had half the night at the helm. We dropped anchor in the early morning hours at our first destination, San Juanico, welcomed by our first visiting dolphins while we had breakfast. The osprey and their nests on the four nearby pinnacles provided a flurry of activity.

Captain Mike enjoying our first anchorage

Living aboard provides ongoing learning experiences. Getting your sea legs after being on the hard takes a couple of days. Getting into a rhythm on board. Seeking better ways to preserve fruits and vegetables, minimize trash, disinfect our environs (more vinegar!) and stow our gear when we’re underway so it's safe and accessible in case of emergency.

Stowing fruits and veggies in the V berth

Ever try pushing a rope?

Becoming Pura Vida again

It’s been three months and a lot of work and fun since our arrival on Thanksgiving in Guaymas.

We made the decision to paint the topsides of our boat this year. It proved to be a wise choice for this year, as it met a number of our goals.

Reason #1? We don’t know in which decade she was last painted – and it looked like it. Even the guys at the marinas who offer to wash and wax our boat have told us “man, you need to paint your boat”. Every year. So, you could say it was time. Like any home, it’s wise to keep it well maintained and we care a lot about our home.

Portrait of a Boat Yard

Primer and taping off the stripes

So the painting project started in December and was completed on February 15^th. Our crew, Alejandro, Aldo and Alejandro, were great and careful throughout the process and in the application of primer and paint. While frustration was, shall we say, prevalent in my mind sometimes during the long process, I remind myself that you can’t push a rope. And you can’t make someone work any faster than they are going to work. ‘Nuf said. Ultimately, building relationships works better for all.  That, along with a few burritos and beer.

Fun with power tools, cutting the crazy custom
cut wood for the anchor locker rebuild

New 'condo' for the chain and rope rode. Nice digs!
I added insulation afterwards.

For the anchor locker project, 3M mask helps with application
of Contact Cement in close quarters

New fresh water pump - with an attitude! I cleaned, primed and sanded
the hatch and cover after Mike swapped the fresh water pump
and removed the old pressure tank, freeing up valuable storage space

Contrary to what some might perceive, there are worse ways to spend our days than working on Pura Vida. Because we consider every day a blessing, we go into each day with our hearts and minds wide open for what life will bring. Most days we start with our walk along the water and come back to tackle the day’s projects, and on occasion, an outing beyond the dry yard (woo hoo!).

Yesterday’s outing was to find non-skid to mix with paint for the entry points at the gates midships on port and starboard and at the stern. With our shiny new paint on the toe rail (we didn’t replace the teak rail), it’s very slippery, and dangerous for getting on and off the boat. After 2 trips to the ferreteria (hardware store), I now know how to say crushed marble in Spanish. I purchased 2.2 kilos (almost 5 lbs) for 5 pesos (27 cents)! I completed my project today (well, as I write this I am waiting for the paint to dry so I can add one more coat to cover the non-skid). I gave remainder of the bag of crushed marble to another project boat guy in the yard. He was a happy recipient and won’t have to wait in line at the hardware store.

Jamaica (hibiscus flower juice) and caldo (seafood soup)

Sunday called for a lunch break ‘off property’ and led us to Leslie’s Palapa restaurant on the water. I loved my Caldo, seafood soup. I asked for a tool to break the crab leg and they brought me a lime squeezer. Well, turns out that works, too. Mike enjoyed a tasty smoked marlin taco and taco el gobernador (the governor).

The Pura Vida painting crew

Great crew! We all worked hard to get us to this magical point

Tomorrow, we splash! Late in the day because of the low tide, we will be lowered into the water and wait until morning to head out into the bay when the tide is high enough for our departure.

Who knows what’s next. We have some ideas and hopes but wind and weather will dictate the next chapter on Pura Vida.

And a full lunar eclipse to boot

Engine room fun!

Cleaning the bilge with a cutoff
coke bottle as a scoop

Last night’s eclipse was spectacular, with its blood orange hue, flanked by onlooking stars, Castor and Pollux. And as January flies by, the glamorous life of the Guaymas dirt yard holds us here, passing another moon cycle on the hard. It’s as if we are mesmerized, perhaps captivated by the long walk to the bathroom, the barking dogs or just our nice neighbors (who are splashing one by one). Or maybe it’s like a spell we haven’t determined the best way to break. Any way you look at it, we are doing well and enjoying our time in the yard working on our many boat projects. Pura Vida is looking good.

Battleship gray - primer status

Alejandro David and Aldo - previous color scheme thankfully not ours

Sun and sanding dust protection, nice and toasty

After :TSP, primer and paint -  celebrating
seemingly small accomplishments

Before: laying over the engine to
access thru hulls - boat yoga for both

Mike, AKA Mr. Thru Hull removing
one - loving our bunny suit

Glassing over - one less thru hull to 'manage'

While we wish we could report amazing whale sightings or scenic extravaganzas, this boring post let's you know we're alive and kicking. Our hull painting project is fully underway by Aldo, Alejandro and Alejandro – sanding, priming, repriming as needed, prepping and ultimately, there will be painting and trim work completed. Mañana is the operative word as to when they’ll be done and then we can schedule our splash. As we learned long ago, mañana does not mean tomorrow, it just doesn’t mean today.

Dinosaurius show at Las Playitas

We’ve been enjoying time with various friends and doing our daily walks. We haven’t gone to the dinosaur show, but I suppose we could. Today’s sign says ‘HOY 2x1’ – twofer today. Might be too scary for us, though.

We are constantly on the quest to find boat parts here - or have them made. There’s always a story or two that ensues when one or both of us venture out. We are always thankful for having access to our car to facilitate those exploratory excursions.

Turning on more friends to our favorite seafood coctel restaurant

Mixing elbows - old and new, thanks Luis!

Custom made step, hand cut slots

Trimming out our new step

Luis' artwork - our new wind generator bracket

Off balance but on their way

Sewing new outboard cover

Shrimp boats on our morning walk to the naval base

Doesn't square meat look appetizing?

We are definitely helping the local economy. The local wood shop has custom cut our two new outboard engine holders, they hand cut the slots in our entry step and crafted another step for our V-berth cabin. Our favorite engineer, Luis, made our new mixing elbow and the mounting  bracket for our wind generator, which we will finally be installing after 8 years of boat ownership. The wind generator will serve as another source of power to complement the new batteries.

The grand variety of vehicles we follow down the road remind us to keep our distance and demonstrate where the pot holes and topes (speed humps) are. This little truck had a very heavy load with a full cab and three guys in back holding 2 barrels of water sloshing about the bed. Well, we hope it was water. In spite of their flat, they drove on. Marina police are another common siting in this large port town as well as police trucks with gun-toting peacekeepers.

And speaking of driving around, when I bought gas this week, I wasn’t quick enough to snap a pic of the uniformed young lady at the Red Flecha fuel station filling a 2 liter coke bottle with gas. She kept her long painted fingernails out of the fuel spray. Nice work!

I’ve documented many of our projects with photos, which, while boring to some, show our progress!

The reward after a long work day