Diving, dolphins & prepping Pura Vida for summer

Greetings from the mainland, Sonora. Enjoy a few photos from our journeys: https://picasaweb.google.com/100074699878222670561/LoretoBajaCaliforniaSouthBCSToSanCarlosSonora?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Celebrating Loreto Fest

Recently left Puerto Escondido’s annual Loreto Fest. Mike’s was anxious to head toward Guaymas and I wanted to see the hubbub of Loreto Fest. We compromised on 1 day. Ironically, we won round one in the bocce tournament so stayed a second day.

Bocce tournament on the beach - with SV Tortuga

Off to Loreto to provision, anchoring on the city’s edge in shallow roadstead (no protection from wind). Then to Puerto Escondido, 'hidden harbor' - a truly lovely area tucked into mountains and protected from the sea. The mountains are so beautiful! I tried to photograph but unable to capture the colors, nuances and dimensions of it all.

Rafa, our Dive Master

Finally dove while visiting Loreto/Puerto Escondido area! One 76 minute dive in 66 – 69 degree water – Judy wearing 3 layers, hood and gloves and still chilly – tropical diving?!? Amazing amounts of creatures large and small, deftly pointed out by dive master, Rafa with Dolphin Dive Center. It was excellen: Starfish, stingrays, blennies, nudibranch, lobster, eels…

Kayaking around bird-filled islands at Playa Santispac

Good morning: a dolphin celebration

Arrived yesterday in San Carlos after passage from Baja California to mainland. Crossing 18.5 hours, last 4 hrs lumpy seas from the E and winds 14 - 18 NE. This year, we’re doing 6 hr watches – the ‘norm’ is 3. Mike 7PM to 1AM, Judy 1AM - 7AM. After a star-studded night due to the new moon, the sun arose at 7. While photographing the sunrise, dolphins came up from the dark water and raced across the waves toward Pura Vida, the sun shining through their spray as they leapt. Pretty cool.

Spending 2 days cleaning salt water from Pura Vida and preparing for long term storage on the hard. Off to free marina tomorrow outside Guaymas to remove sail #3 of 4, then haul out Monday. A few days to put Pura Vida to bed for the season then bus to Phoenix where our friends await and we head to Portland on 5/22. 

Here's where we've been - and today, leaving La Paz. I still have internet access as we depart the long shallow bay out of Lorenzo Channel to the islands north. Our "plan" is to head up to Loreto fest by early May, then cross over from Conception Bay / Bahia Concepcion back to our stomping grounds in Guaymas, Sonora. We'll close up Pura Vida over a few days then take the 12 hour bus to Phoenix. It's back to Portland on May 22nd!

Oh the Joy of a Hot Shower!

showering at anchor

After 8 days on the water, a hot shower is something special - you dream of hot water flowing freely - and consistently - drenching your body in clean. 

We’re super conscientious about water consumption and a shower is a luxury. We also swim and wash our hair in the sea - fish swimming around you and the taste of salt on your tongue. However, nothing beats a shower where the water flows, hot and steamy and you can let it run. And you don’t have to worry about being bit in the butt by a fish.

Our salt water-friendly Savon du Mer (soap of the sea) works pretty well. You jump in the sea (or like me, you tiptoe in via the ladder) , soap up and get a bit of a fresh water rinse – standing on deck with the solar shower hanging from the forward staysail. No worries, no class. You’re celebrating clean. We also sport an on board shower that rocks (as far as showers we’ve seen on other boats). 

avoiding the nets of huge shrimper boats en route

Dolphins swimming alongside Pura Vida - very cool!

Enjoying dinner with good friends in Puerto Vallarta

We have been underway since early March and the last few weeks have been a grand time of seeing cruising friends from last season, meeting new friends, exploring, experiencing dolphins and sea turtles on the surface, and the moon phases increasing with each night’s passage.

Now we are in La Paz, the moon is ¾ and filling the night sky with light. The marina is filled with sailboat anchor lights, solar lights and the occasional dock light. The palm trees disappear into the night sky after magical sunsets of ice cream colors.

We leave La Paz this morning for islands north with anchorages that are quiet and remote. We wonder if we’ll be boarded by the Mexican park patrol looking for park permits. The Mexican government is sold out so you can’t get one, but you're expected to have one anyway. It’s a great thing they are protecting the islands around La Paz, and we'd be glad to buy one if they were available.

 Sunset colors astound

We walked the malecon to meet friends north of the city for a dinner – 2 mile walk along the most incredible boulevard - walkers, runners, street vendors, lovers, bikes, and tykes. All are enjoying the magic that is La Paz.

Ice cream stores abound and we enjoy a midday ice cream to break the high 80s heat. A walk along the malecon, venturing to back streets filled with street vendors, treacherous sidewalks and the mixed bag of a Mexican street -  closed stores, small shops, graffiti, a potato chip vendor, a hot dog vendor. You watch every step you take, I tripped on 2 small sidewalk steps even while watching.

Our boat is safe in Marina La Paz – we waited a few days in the anchorage to get a slip. It’s great to get into the marina to wash the boat, clean the salt off, take on fresh water, fuel and provision for the next destinations. Mike fixes a hole in the dinghy – our mode of transportation while at anchor, so that’s very important to us.

Ready for our ATV ride in the dusty mountains 

Good friends from Vancouver WA visited over their spring break – we explored La Cruz, Puerto Vallarta, Bucerias, Las Varas and Chacala. One highlight was an amazing 11 zipline day trip in the mountains east of PV. Starts with 2 hours on ATV, then zipline down the mountains, followed by a mule ride and tequila experience - tasting various tequilas and learning the process. 

We’ve added 2 new albums to our photo gallery:

Tony & Michelle’s visit

https://picasaweb.google.com/100074699878222670561/TonyMichelleVisitApril?authuser=0&feat=directlink

La Cruz to La Paz

https://picasaweb.google.com/100074699878222670561/LaCruzDeHuanacaxtleNayaritToLaPazBCSApril2013?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Pura Vida projects - Fall/Winter 2013

For those with a crazy curiosity of what we've been working on since our arrival in Guaymas in November, here's an overview of our projects!

Engine Room

- remove and rebuild 4 injectors

- rebuild engine oil and transmission oil cooler

- build extension for engine air intake

- install holding tank vent filter

- change engine oil – 5 times

- change transmission oil

- extensive clean of bilge then fiberglass and epoxy primer

- exhaust and raw water mixer repair and weld

- rebuild both starters

- had alternator bench tested

Forward V-berth cabin

- replace and repair door guides

- install storage hammock

- clean anchor locker and mark 30 ft increments on 280 ft of chain

- install seizing wire on anchor shackles

Salon

- install 2 DC fans

- replace and repair door guides

- revise storage systems

- install Sirius satellite and Kenwood radio and speakers

- have custom door built with built in speaker, oil to match teak

- install non-skid on cabin stairs

- perform maintenance on freezer system 

Overall

- install LEDs in 10 fixtures and main overhead light

- plug holes, stain teak walls

- rewire starboard solar panel

- repair wall in master suite

Stern Head

- replace dryrotted wood, caulk, repaint trim and walls

- install solar lights around inside of dodger

Deck/Teak

- remove caulk from entire perimeter, recaulk below teak toe rail

- clean and oil all teak - toe rail, deck. Bowsprit, windows, grab rails

- strip and varnish stern hatch doors

- strip varnish from cockpit teak trim and apply oil

- strip varnish from main cabin doors, sand and apply oil

- sand and varnish 3 oars

Exterior

- replace dock lines with Top Knot (boat show special)

- polish 3 blade prop

- remove rust and paint propane tanks; sell extra

- reroute propane line into new propane locker

- rebuild windlass, paint exterior

- remove rust from windlass handle, paint and add silicone Rescue Tape

- strip and refinish all decks and cabin top; apply non-skid on decks

- cut, drill, paint steel frame for Sirius satellite antenna

- install GAM antenna on the standing rigging – Mike up the mast

- reinstall radar reflector – up the mast one more time

- design new solar panel supports

- install new face plate for engine instruments in cockpit

- repair engine oil and water temperature alarms

- remove unused instruments in cockpit and install cubbyhole for storage

- sew custom cover for cubby hole with German snap system

- replace stern hatch Lexan

- remove track from derelict catamaran for jib

- cut to size and install new track for jib, remove deck centered hardware

- remove bowsprit from derelict catamaran for stainless steel project

- install stainless steel stern pulpit from boarding gate to existing stainless framework

- install grab rail on binnacle

- repair man overboard pole

- build out propane locker with custom designed wood tray and divider

- install storage crate below mizzen boom with winch holder

- replace grill with working model

- devise sun screen system for rear cabin deck and install grommets

- sew new outboard cover and install alarm system with bells and chain

- sew rear hatch bugscreen

- resew kayak covers to expand capacity

- to add life to aging dinghy, apply primer and paint protection

- install new oarlocks and pins on dinghy

Hull

- remove embedded coral transported from Washington state

- apply fiberglass to repair hole in keel

- sand entire hull to bare fiberglass, apply epoxy primer, anti-fouling, and International bottom paint

Electronics

- install new tachometer and rewire

- reinstall tested SSB radio

- install SSB GAM antenna and hardware

- install navigation software on PC and iPad

 Photos of some of our projects:

https://picasaweb.google.com/jmgoehler/PuraVidaProjectsInGuaymasNovember2012?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Southbound: Mazatlan to Banderas Bay

Brown Boobie roosting on our bowsprit as we head south

Eight days have passed since our Sunday morning arrival in the Mazatlan marina. Our non-stop transit time from Guaymas was 74 hours (vs. 81 predicted), as we made good time the first 2 days then winds on the nose the last day and a half. 

On arrival at the dock, we were greeted by cruising friends, Diane and Paddy. We’d met them in Newport OR on our mutual boating travels down the west coast in fall 2011. They also did the Baja Haha, so it was great to see their smiling faces!

Diane, Paddy and Mike

Arrival on St. Patrick’s Day found us fortunate to be invited to a beach-side authentic Irish feast, complete with corned beef and cabbage, celebrated with Paddy, who hails from Ireland, and Diane, who also lived there. Plus we had the great fortune to connect at the party once again with Nikki and John - fellow cruisers and friends from Alaska. It was grand to catch up, hugs all around. All in all, a great day.

This passage, we tried longer night shifts – 6 hours vs. 3 or 4. It's a long shift in the dark (for some of us) - long enough to watch the moon set and the stars dance across the night sky!  This is a new twist that we will replicate tomorrow as we head south to Banderas Bay/Puerto Vallarta area - although the moon is closer to full, so will illuminate the sea.

Women's restroom sink - keys are faucet handles

A day trip to El Quelite was a great success with Diane and Paddy, driven by local cabbie Enrique, who took us to Sinaloa’s only tequila factory, an extensive family-owned operation and on to the colorful pueblo of El Quelite, with its colonial charm, cobblestone streets traveled by horses, scooters selling tortillas and a few cars. Check out a few of our colorful photos at 

You are invited to view Mike Judy Goehler's photo album: El Quelite, Sinaloa, Mexico

El Quelite, Sinaloa, Mexico Mar 24, 2013 by Mike Judy Goehler View Album Play slideshow

We look forward to our return to Banderas Bay area, heading out Monday 3/25 at 5:30a. We'll be picking up Michelle and Tony on Friday at the airport for a week of fun and sailing.

Setting sail for Mazatlan!

Seeing us off: wonderful friends Mel, Nancy and Birgit 

Sunday, 10 March 2013 

This morning I awoke to the song of a kingfisher and waves splashing against the hull – we’re on the water again! After more than 4 months of working on Pura Vida in the boatyard in Guaymas, our splash was a joy, a relief, a gift. We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Guaymas and spending time with many friends, old and new, in the area.

Larry, Brad and Mike watching the travel lift

Not all work and no play: Mark and Mike during our hike to the beach

Mike and the Medicine Man

After our long awaited splash on Saturday, Birgit and Mark set us free from the ways on this windy Sunday morning at 9:20 with gusts to 24 knots, we exited slowly from the idyllic bay that has been our home port these months. 

As we departed the shallow bay at high tide from Marina Seca Guaymas, we passed Morningstar II and maneuvered around a couple of pangas (fishing boats) and the islands. Even at high tide, we cruised slowly in 3-4 ft of water.

Birdlife abounds in that lovely little bay with osprey, heron, egret, pelican, frigate, vultures and gulls skating on the breeze and gusts, while coots and diving ducks slip under the waves for breakfast treats. 

Getting serious about setting sail

Tomorrow we set sail directly southbound to Mazatlan! Estimated 81 hours transit time, at 5knots, we'll see how the winds cooperate to help us on our journey. Food's prepared for our 4 hour watches over these next 3 1/2 days, and it's been a while since we've done a journey of this duration so I feel a tinge of excitement and anxiousness.

As I sit on a hilltop overlooking the fish processing plant in Guaymas - climbed up here with my stool and computer in tow to get internet access - Mike is checking things one more time in the engine room (a place he has spend a considerable amount of time in these past few weeks. Such patience and fortitude to resolve engine issues and such!)

Mike hoisting our new US flag

Hopefully, the next post will be from Mazatlan or our destination for this leg of our journey, Puerto Vallarta / La Cruz. 

Happy Valentine’s Day from Guaymas

Walking to the ladder checking out
our new bottom paint 

We are still in Guaymas after 3 months! No splash for us yet. None of the luxurious cruising perhaps you think we're doing.

Looking down from our boat we welcome
Shelley & Walt.  Our 4 companionway doors
in process - after sanding before teak oil

We're living 'on the hard' in the boatyard. Pura Vida up on stilts, we climb up and down the ladder multiple times daily to the restroom and shower, to the bus, to haul water and visit neighboring boats. We continue working on Pura Vida projects while making friends in the boatyard – everyone has interesting, colorful tales about why they’re here, where they've been and where they’re headed.

Domingo & crew painting the bottom

Mike and I enjoy exploring Guaymas, a resourceful, industrial area where you can find pretty much anything you need – well, except for some boat parts that we either do without, jury rig or plead with anyone coming down from the states!

Sunset view from the cockpit

 Boat projects continue and fall into 3 categories: upgrades, repairs and maintenance.  Progress is visible. Even with setbacks we are extremely fortunate for what we have, what we are learning daily, and of course, our flexibility to make the most of every day.

With Mel and Shelley - Mel smashing an egg filled
with confetti on my head during Carnaval parade

While we never envisioned we’d still be around for another parade in Guaymas, we joined in their multi-day celebration of Carnaval. And do they party! Extremely loud music, lengthy parades with multi-national floats and confetti filling the air. Millions of taco, candy, elote (corn) and Tostito carts hawking various renditions of Mexican fast food - some we’ve tried, others we can only guess what the concoction is. The plethora of junk food we skip - deep fried and / or sugar coated, potato chips smothered with picante sauces, corn on the cob dipped in cheese and salsa.

La Cobacha with cruising friends on V Day

Tonight, we celebrated Valentine’s Day with a group of friends from the boatyard - going out to dinner is a special treat. 

Check out our pics on Picasa -

Music festival:

https://picasaweb.google.com/100074699878222670561/AlamosSonoraMusicFestivalJan201302?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Carnaval parade:

https://picasaweb.google.com/100074699878222670561/CarnavalParadeGuaymasFeb2013?authuser=0&feat=directlink